SCRAPSRIFIC RAINBOW CROCHET BLANKET PART TWO

Scrapsrific Rainbow Crochet Blanket Part Two – Free Crochet Along

The Scrapsrific Rainbow Crochet Blanket Part Two is part of a fun, unique blanket worked in a variety of stitches and squares.
A puzzle constructed as you crochet.

PATTERN SUPPORT

• Full pattern support is available from the Joanita Theron Designs Facebook Group or/and Joanita Theron Designs Ravelry Group.
• Please post a question in the group and remember to TAG me! I will assist as soon as possible or one of my members will gladly jump in to help!
• For questions relating to permission or usage email joanita@creativecrochetworkshop.com

Abbreviations:  US Terminology

CH – chain
SL ST – slip stitch
SC – single crochet (UK – DC)
HDC – half double crochet (UK – HTR)
DC – double crochet (UK – TR)
TR – treble crochet (UK – DTR)
BLP – back loop
RS – Right side
WS – Wrong side

For more information about this crochet along CLICK HERE!

**********

Colors – completely optional

• A – natural
• B – sepia
• C – marigold
• D – sherbet
• E – kiwi
• F – mint
• G – turquoise
• H – azure
• I – watermelon
• J – pomegranate

PART TWO:

IMPORTANT NOTES:

• READ the instructions through first;
• special stitches are noted and linked to tutorials (if necessary) for each part;
• please check your stitch count – this IS important for joining!
• All sizes mentioned are approximate only – this ALL depends on YOUR hook, YOUR yarn and YOUR tension.
  – for this project to be joined with the least effort be sure to use the SAME hook throughout!
• I use US Crochet stitch terminology.

My Hook:
4.00 mm

Abbreviations: 
CH – chain
SL ST – slip stitch
SC – single crochet
HDC – half double crochet
DC – double crochet
TR – treble crochet
BLP – back loop

Special Stitches:
Magic Circle – photo tutorial courtesy of M and M Crochet Designs
Standing DC – photo tutorial courtesy of M and M Crochet Designs

FPDC: Front Post Double Crochet – video courtesy of Fiber Flux

4DCtog – Cluster – video by Joanita Theron

 

What you will crochet:

4 x 6 inch (15 cm) squares:

• 2 x Magic Flower Square
• 2 x Rainbow Corner Square

Rounds 3 and 4 of a 12 inch (30 cm) – only 1 – continued from Part One

INSTRUCTIONS:

Magic Flower Square: Make 2

Colors I used:

• square 1 –  C marigold; I watermelon; A natural; E kiwi; B sepia and I watermelon
• square 2 -D sherbet; J pomegranate; A natural; F mint; B sepia and J pomegranate

Takes approx to 30/45 minutes to make one square – depending on skill and how quickly you crochet.

With A – Make a magic circle / or CH 6; SL ST to form a circle

RND 1: CH 5 (counts as 1 DC AND 2  CH spaces); work (1 DC; CH 2) 7 times into circle;
SL ST into 3rd of 5 CH. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Join with new color into ANY 2 CH space

RND 2: CH 3 (counts as 1 DC); work 3DCtog into SAME 2 CH space; CH 3.
*Work Cluster (see special stitches) into next 2 CH space; CH 3.** Repeat from * to ** 6 more times. SL ST into top of starting cluster. Fasten off and weave in ends.
(8 clusters and 8 x 2 CH spaces)

Join with new color into ANY 3 CH space

RND 3: CH 3 (counts as 1 DC) or do the Standing DC/ work 2 DC into same 3 CH space; CH 1; work FPDC around next Cluster; CH 1.
*Work 3 DC into next 3 CH space; CH 1; work FPDC around next Cluster; CH 1.**
Repeat from *to** 7 more times. SL ST into 3rd of 3 CH. Fasten off and weave in ends.
(8 x FPDC; 8 x 3 DC groups)

NOTE: the FPDC will pull the center ‘flower’ up – this is okay! It flattens out as the square grows.

With new yarn join into ANY 1 CH space BEFORE a 3 DC group

RND 4: *CH 4; work 3DCtog over NEXT 3 DC; CH 4; SL ST into next 1 CH space; CH 1; SKIP FPDC;
SL ST into next 1 CH space.** Repeat from * to ** 7 more times; SL ST into first SL ST.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
(8 petals)

With new yarn join into ANY 1 CH space OVER a FPDC

RND 5: *CH 4 (counts as 1 TR); CH 2; work 1 TR into same space; CH 3; work 1 SC into TOP of next petal;
CH 3; work 1 TR into next 1 CH space; CH 3; work 1 SC into TOP of next petal; CH 3.
*Work [1 TR; CH 2; 1 TR] into next 1 CH space; CH 3; work 1 SC into TOP of next petal;
CH 3; work 1 TR into next 1 CH space; CH 3; work 1 SC into TOP of next petal; CH 3.**
Repeat from * to ** 2 more times. SL ST into 4th CH of 4 CH.
Fasten off and weave in ends.

With new yarn join into ANY 2 CH corner space/ or continue with same yarn

RND 6: CH 3 (counts as 1 DC/ or do the STANDING DC  – work [1DC; 2 CH; 2 DC] into same corner space;
work 1 DC into next TR; work 3 DC into next 3 CH space; work 1 DC into next SC;
work 3 DC into next 3 CH space; work 1 DC into next TR; work 3 DC into next 3 CH space;
work 1 DC into next SC; work 3 DC into next 3 CH space; work 1 DC into next TR.
*Work [2 DC; 2 CH; 2 DC] into next corner space;
work 1 DC into next TR; work 3 DC into next 3 CH space; work 1 DC into next SC;
work 3 DC into next 3 CH space; work 1 DC into next TR; work 3 DC into next 3 CH space;
work 1 DC into next SC; work 3 DC into next 3 CH space; work 1 DC into next TR.**
Repeat from * to ** 2 more times; SL ST into 3rd of 3 CH. (21 DC on each side)
Fasten off and weave in ends.

With new yarn join into ANY 2 CH corner space

RND 7: CH 3 (counts as 1 DC/ or do the STANDING DC  – work [1DC; 2 CH; 2 DC] into same corner space;
work 1 DC into each of next 21 DC.
*Work [2DC; 2 CH; 2 DC] into next corner space;
work 1 DC into each of next 21 DC.**
Repeat from * to ** 2 more times; SL ST into 3rd of 3 CH.
Fasten off and weave in ends.

If you count the STITCHES from corner to corner (2 CH space to 2 CH space) you SHOULD have 25 STS.
The square should approx measure 6 inches (15 cm)

Rainbow Corner Square: Make 2

• square 1 – D sherbet; C marigold; F mint; E kiwi; J pomegranate; I watermelon; H azure; G turquoise;
  A natural; B sepia and E kiwi
• square 2 -A natural; B sepia; H azure; G turquoise; J pomegranate; I watermelon; F mint; E kiwi; D sherbet;
  C marigold and G turquoise

Takes approx to 30/45 minutes to make one square – depending on skill and how quickly you crochet.

With A – Make a magic circle / or CH 6; SL ST to form a circle

ROW 1: CH 3 (counts as 1 DC); work [1 DC; CH 2; 2 DC] into circle; TURN

NOTE: CH 2 in the following rows DO NOT COUNT AS A STITCH
Change color after each ROW

ROW 2: CH 2; work 1 DC into next 2 DC; work [2 DC; 2 CH; 2 DC] into 2 CH space; work 1 DC into next 2 DC. TURN
(4 DC on each side)

ROW 3: CH 2; work 1 DC into next 4 DC; work [2 DC; 2 CH; 2 DC] into 2 CH space; work 1 DC into next 4 DC. TURN
(6 DC on each side)

ROW 4: CH 2; work 1 DC into next 6 DC; work [2 DC; 2 CH; 2 DC] into 2 CH space; work 1 DC into next 6 DC. TURN
(8 DC on each side)

ROW 5: CH 2; work 1 DC into next 8 DC; work [2 DC; 2 CH; 2 DC] into 2 CH space; work 1 DC into next 8 DC. TURN
(10 DC on each side)

ROW 6: CH 2; work 1 DC into next 10 DC; work [2 DC; 2 CH; 2 DC] into 2 CH space; work 1 DC into next 10 DC. TURN (12 DC on each side)

ROW 7: CH 2; work 1 DC into next 12 DC; work [2 DC; 2 CH; 2 DC] into 2 CH space; work 1 DC into next 12 DC. TURN (14 DC on each side)

ROW 8: CH 2; work 1 DC into next 14 DC; work [2 DC; 2 CH; 2 DC] into 2 CH space; work 1 DC into next 14 DC. TURN (16 DC on each side)

ROW 9: CH 2; work 1 DC into next 16 DC; work [2 DC; 2 CH; 2 DC] into 2 CH space; work 1 DC into next 16 DC. TURN (18 DC on each side)

ROW 10: CH 2; work 1 DC into next 18 DC; work [1 DC; 2 CH; 1 DC] into 2 CH space; work 1 DC into next 18 DC. TURN (19 DC on each side)

NOTE: those that work from the photos will note that I have 20 DC on my sides – this is incorrect – my square that is correct was not blocked and dry yet for the photos – due to delayed issues – will upload as soon as possible.

Fasten off and weave in ALL ends – I would recommend this – it will make the next ROUND much easier!

The second photo show the square NOT pulled into shape.
But with a little finger stretching and pulling (not too much) just shape it for the next round.

With new yarn join into the ONLY 2 CH corner

RND 11: CH 3 (counts as 1 DC/ or do the STANDING DC  – work [1 DC; 2 CH; 2 DC] into same corner space;
work 1 DC into each of next 19 DC – now continue in the round by creating your next corner into the
space between the LAST DC AND 2ND LAST –
work [2 DC; 2 CH; 2 DC] into this space – now work 19 DC evenly along the edge until you reach the end –
then into the bottom space work your next corner –
work [2 DC; 2 CH; 2 DC] into this space – now work 19 DC evenly along the edge until you reach the end –
into the space between last 2 DC – create your last corner –
work [1 DC; 2 CH; 2 DC] into same corner space; work 1 DC into each of next 19 DC.
SL  ST into 3rd of 3 CH. Fasten off and weave in ends.
(23 DC on each side)

With new yarn join into the ONLY 2 CH corner

RND 12: *Work [1 SC; 2 CH; 1 SC] into corner; work 1 SC into each of next 23 DC.**
Repeat from *to** 3 more times; SL ST into first SC worked. Fasten off and weave in ends.

If your square looks like this one above – don’t stress its normal :p
Some good blocking will pull it into shape!

If you count the STITCHES from corner to corner (2 CH space to 2 CH space) you SHOULD have 25 STS.
The square should approx measure 6 inches (15 cm)

Rounds 3 and 4 of a 12 inch (30 cm):

With color J (pomegranate) – join into any 3 CH space BETWEEN two Clusters – see photo – this would be the exposed space – if you did the surface crochet.

RND 3: CH 3 (counts as 1 DC) or do the STANDING DC/ work [1 DC; 2 CH; 2 DC] into same 3 CH space; work 1 FPDC around ‘join’ of surface crochet/ if you did not do the surface crochet work 1 DC into next 3 CH space.
*Work [2 DC; 2 CH; 2 DC] into next 3 CH space (between clusters); work 1 FPDC around ‘join’ of surface crochet/ if you did not do the surface crochet work 1 DC into next 3 CH space.
Fasten off and weave in ends.

With color I (watermelon) – join into any 2 CH space

RND 4: CH 3; work 4DCtog into same space; CH 4; work FPDC around next FPDC/or DC; CH 4.
*Work 5DCtog Cluster into next 2 CH space; CH 4; work FPDC around next FPDC/or DC; CH 4.**
Repeat from * to ** 6 more times. Fasten off and weave in ends.
(8 Clusters; 8 x FPDC; 16 x 4 CH spaces)

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