RAINBOW WHEEL CROCHET BAG

Rainbow Wheel Crochet Bag| Joanita Theron Designs @joanitatherondesigns #crochet #crochetbag #crochetsquare #crochetaccessory #freecrochetpattern

Rainbow Wheel Crochet Bag

This Rainbow Wheel Crochet Bag is a fun and colorful bag.
A fun project for all your leftover yarns. Perfect stash buster and makes a great gift too!

Rainbow Wheel Crochet Bag| Joanita Theron Designs @joanitatherondesigns #crochet #crochetbag #crochetsquare #crochetaccessory #freecrochetpattern

 

Rainbow Wheel Crochet Bag

Difficulty Level | Skills Required

Easy

Basic stitches in simple variations, simple repeats, color changes, shaping and finishing.

You will need to know basic stitches like SC (single crochet) and DC (double crochet).
Special stitches explained and provided in the instructions.

Materials

  • Hook – 4, 00 mm (G)
  • Scissors
  • Yarn needle
  • Keychain Ring (optional)

Yarn:

100 % Cotton Weight – DK (11 wpi) 3: Light.

For this project I used an assortment of colors – Moya 100% Cotton Double Knit  – there are no preset color coordinates.  If you would like to replicate my colours – I used the following:

Pomegranate (pink)

Marigold (yellow)

Avo (green)

Teal (blue)

Rusty Red (light red)

Cherry (red)

Yarn Substitute:
Using the same type of yarn throughout the project is recommended. The pattern suggests Cotton DK yarn, but you are not limited to this type of yarn. Any yarn can be used if you take into consideration your sizing for the project will differ.

Tension | Gauge

Gauge is NOT necessary for this project to be perfect – using the same yarn and hook will ensure hexagons to remain same size. Blocking can help with adjusting sizing of hexagons.
COUNTING your stitches will ensure a true success of this project!

Size

Approx. 12 inches (31 cm) in width and 10 inches (26 cm) in length

Remember – if you use/choose a different yarn weight/hook size your bag will be a different size!

Helpful Tips | Hints

  • It is recommended to weave in ends as you go.
  • Because several pieces need to be joined, it is important to count the stitches to ensure success.
  • If you have trouble with tension, please when advised use a larger hook.
  • Most importantly, have fun and enjoy the process.

PATTERN SUPPORT

Abbreviations:  US Terminology

CH – chain
SL ST – slip stitch
SC – single crochet (UK – DC)
HDC – half double crochet (UK – HTR)
DC – double crochet (UK – TR)
TR – treble crochet (UK – DTR)
BLP – back loop
RS – Right side
WS – Wrong side

Rainbow Wheel Crochet Bag| Joanita Theron Designs @joanitatherondesigns #crochet #crochetbag #crochetsquare #crochetaccessory #freecrochetpattern

INSTRUCTIONS:

My hook: 4,00 mm (G)

The Rainbow Wheel Square – Make 4

With hook and yarn – CH 6, SL ST into first CH to form a ring OR make a magic circle.

Optional: work into back-loops only

Rnd 1: CH 2 (does NOT count as a ST); work 12 DC into ring (12 DC), SL ST into first DC made.
Rnd 2: CH 2 (does NOT count as a ST, work 2DC into each DC (24 DC), SL ST into first DC made.
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Rnd 3: Join new color with a SC into a DC from Rnd 2,
*skip 1DC, CH3, work 1 SC into next DC.** Repeat from *to** all around. SL ST into first SC worked.
(12 x 3 CH spaces; 12 SC)
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Rnd 4: Join new color with a SL ST into a 3 CH space.
CH3 (this counts as 1 DC), work 2 DC into space, CH1.
*Work 3 DC into next 3 CH space, CH1.** Repeat from *to** all around. SL ST into 3rd of 3 CH.
(36 DC; 12 x 1 CH spaces)
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Rnd 5: Join new color with a SC into 1CH space, CH 4.
*Work 1 SC into next 1 CH space, CH 4. Repeat from *to** all around. SL ST into first SC worked.
(12 x 4 CH spaces; 12 x 1 SC)
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Rnd 6: Join new color with a SL ST into a 4CH space. CH3, work 3 DC into space, CH1.
*Work 4 DC into next 4 CH space, CH1. Repeat from *to** all around. SL ST into 3rd of 3 CH.
(48 DC; 12 x 1 CH spaces)
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Rnd 7: Join new color with a SL ST into a 1 CH space. CH3, work [2 DC, 2 CH, 3 DC] into same space.
*CH 3, work 3 DC into next 1 CH space, CH3  work 3 DC into 1 CH space, CH3 , work [3DC, 2 CH, 3DC] into next 1CH space.** Repeat from *to** 3 more times;
CH 3, work 3 DC into next 1 CH space, CH3  work 3 DC into 1 CH space, CH3; SL ST into 3rd of 3 CH.
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Rnd 8: Join new color with a SC into any corner 2 CH space; work [1 SC; 2 CH; 1 SC] into space;
(work 1 SC into next 3 DC; work 1 SC into next 3 CH;) x 3; work 1 SC into next 3 DC.
*Work [1 SC; 2 CH; 1 SC] into space; (work 1 SC into next 3 DC; work 1 SC into next 3 CH;) x 3;
work 1 SC into next 3 DC.**
Repeat from *to ** 2 more times; SL ST into first SC worked.
Fasten off and weave in ends.

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Joining the Squares:

Join 2 squares together x 2

I used the slip stitch method: – you can use an other join whatever is comfortable for you 😉

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Square Borders:

With joined squares laying front side up – join into the top RIGHT hand corner

RND 1: CH 4 (this counts as 1 HDC and 2 CH); work 1 HDC into same corner;
work 1 HDC into next 23 SC (back-loops optional); work 1 HDC into the JOIN;
work 1 HDC into next 23 SC – this will be the next square;
work [1 HDC; 2 CH; 1 HDC] into next corner space;
work 1 HDC into next 23 SC;
work [1 HDC; 2 CH; 1 HDC] into next corner space;
work 1 HDC into next 23 SC (back-loops optional); work 1 HDC into the JOIN;
work 1 HDC into next 23 SC; work [1 HDC; 2 CH; 1 HDC] into next corner space;
work 1 HDC into next 23 SC; SL ST into 2nd CH of 4 CH.
(you will have 49 HDC on the long edges and 25 HDC on the short edges)
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Optional: work into back-loops for each round

Join new yarn into top RIGHT have corner

RND 2: CH 4 (this counts as 1 HDC and 2 CH); work 1 HDC into same corner;
*work 1 HDC into next 49 HDC; work [1 HDC; 2 CH; 1 HDC] into next corner space;
work 1 HDC into next 25 HDC.**
Repeat from *to** once more; SL ST into 2nd of 4 CH.
(you will have 51 HDC on the long edges and 27 HDC on the short edges)
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Join the 2 pieces together – slip stitch the sides and bottom together.

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Bag Top Border:

Optional: work into back-loops for each round

Join yarn into TOP RIGHT hand corner with an SC

RND 1: work 1 SC into next 51 HDC; work 1 SC into corner;
work 1 SC into JOIN; work 1 SC into corner; work 1 SC into next 51 HDC;
work 1 SC into corner; work 1 SC into JOIN; SL ST into first SC worked.
(108 SC)

RND 2: CH 1; work 1 SC into joining SC; work 1 SC into each SC all around.
SL ST into first SC worked.
(108 SC)
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Join new yarn into LAST SC worked.

RND 3: CH 2 (DOES NOT COUNT AS ST); work 1 DC into SAME ST; work 1 DC into each SC all around.
SL ST into FIRST DC worked.
(108 DC)

RND 4: CH 2 (DOES NOT COUNT AS ST); work 1 DC into SAME ST; work 1 DC into each DC all around.
SL ST into FIRST DC worked.
(108 DC)
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Join new yarn into LAST DC worked.

RND 5: CH 1; work 1 SC into joining DC; work 1 SC into each DC all around.
SL ST into first SC worked.
(108 SC)

RND 6: CH 1; work 1 SC into joining SC; work 1 SC into next 16 SC;
CH 20; SKIP NEXT 20 SC; work 1 SC into next 34 SC; CH 20; SKIP NEXT 20 SC;
work 1 SC into next 17 SC; SL ST into first SC worked.
(altogether with CH and STS you should still have 108)

RND 7: CH 1; work 1 SC into joining SC; work 1 SC into next 16 SC; work 1 SC into each of next 20 CH;
work 1 SC into next 34 SC; work 1 SC into each of next 20 CH; work 1 SC into next 17 SC;
SL ST into first SC worked.
(108 SC)
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Join new yarn into LAST SC worked.

RND 8: CH 2 (DOES NOT COUNT AS ST); work 1 DC into SAME ST; work 1 DC into each SC all around.
SL ST into FIRST DC worked.
(108 DC)

RND 9: CH 1; work 1 SC into joining DC; work 1 SC into each DC all around.
SL ST into first SC worked.
(108 SC)

LAST RND: SL ST into each SC all around;
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Trimmings:

Bottom Edge:

Join into a corner loop of a stitch; work 1 SC; *CH 4; work 4DCtog into 4th CH from hook; SKIP two loops;
work 1 SC into next loop.**
Repeat from *to** all along bottom edge. Fasten off and weave in ends.

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Top Trimmings:

I surface SLIPPED STITCHED a round just above the first DC round.

For the next trimming – make sure the handle section if facing towards you 😉

Then made a PICOT trimming into the loops of the second DC round;
Join into any loop with a SC; *CH 3; SL ST into 3rd CH from hook; SKIP 2 loops;
work SC into next loop.**
Repeat from *to** all around; SL ST into first SC worked. Fasten off and weave in ends.

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Heart Embellishment with ‘Tassel’:

The ‘tassel’ is actually a single fringe added – but it looks like a tassel 🙂

Heart:
CH 6; SL ST into first CH to form a ring;

CH 2 (this DOES NOT count as ST); work 1 DC;; work 3 TR; work 1 DC;
work 2 HDC; work 1 SC; CH 3; work 1 SC; work 2 HDC; work 1 DC; work 3 TR; work 1 DC;
work 1 SC; SL ST into FIRST DC worked. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Make a tassel fringe into the 3 CH space at the bottom of the heart.

Revival Rainbow Wheel Bag | Creative Crochet Workshop #freecrochetpattern #crochet #ccwrevivalrainbowwheelbag

Rainbow Wheel Crochet Bag| Joanita Theron Designs @joanitatherondesigns #crochet #crochetbag #crochetsquare #crochetaccessory #freecrochetpattern

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